Mormon Row Mountain Bluebirds + more

August 2023 by Beary Birding

In August 2023, I took a trip out to Wyoming with the main destinations being Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park. Here is an excerpt from one of the most memorable spots of the whole trip, Mormon Row.

Iconic Sunrise at Mormon Row

We started the day dark and early after an alright night’s rest. Struggling out of bed at 5:00 AM, we blindly waddled outside through the almost darkness knowing that bears could be lurking in the distance. Suddenly, a dark figure spun through the air with such agility and a famous wingshape—a bat! Flycatching systematically through the air like the same bats from home, or even as some swallows and swifts convergently learned. 

Cliff Swallows foraging over the mountains with bat-like agility

The sun peeked through the sky as we made our way toward the renowned Mormon Row in anticipation of a fabulous sunrise. Lights still decorated much of the quaint village-like ornaments on a Christmas Tree. These Christmas lights on a Christmas town brought back nostalgic memories of the bleak winter and the solace of Santa. We took the same route through Jackson, slingshotting back north again. In preparation for spying off the side of the road for the waterfowl at Flat Creek, I placed my binoculars right at the window. Once we reached the pond, I quickly began identifying the ducks—or I would have if I could actually see them. I could only make out the slender silhouettes of some roosting dabbling ducks, with a few larger mallards beside them. Better luck next time.

I carefully scanned the sagebrush valley for any potential Sagebrush Sparrow or Greater Sage-Grouse. In a land so vast, it is nearly impossible to pinpoint one group of birds that the grouse use to their advantage. Scanning the gently warming earth for their presence from a moving car may not be ideal either. Regardless, the appealing dawn in the open country mesmerizes any individual admiring it.

Pair of Sandhill Cranes soaring over the picturesque valley

As we approached Mormon Row, the sun crept above the mountains. From the parking lot, we stood awestruck at the picturesque landscape. Another start of a brand new day from another chilly and cold night prompted a few eager Western Meadowlarks to whistle their sweet broken computer noises. Soon, Brewer’s Blackbirds flocked over the Mormon barns across the valley. They sang their squeaky Rusty Blackbird-like songs and merrily chipped at the advent of a new day. The massive mountains behind received the first rays of sunshine followed by the highest trees and the most eager birds. Soon, I saw my first Mountain Bluebird of the day basking in the sun from the tallest barn. Photographers lined up in front of John Moulton Homestead, while I scanned the opposite direction’s sagebrush in hopes of Greater Sage-Grouse or Sagebrush Sparrow. In the distance, I noticed a silhouette of an LBJ. It stood atop a sagebrush in the far distance. The bird sang a single verse of Western Meadowlark, yet with a bit of a more consistent, reminiscent of a slightly repaired computer. Suddenly, it hit me. I was hearing and looking at a Sagebrush Sparrow. The moment I realized this and reached for my camera to attempt a photograph, the bird chirped once and disappeared forever into the great expanse of sagebrush. Although I had an awfully brief moment with a terribly distant bird, I still had a diagnostic enough moment to identify a seldom-seen Sagebrush Sparrow! I never heard it again, but the sweet whistles of Western Meadowlarks made up for it. 

Savannah Sparrow

Brewer's Blackbirds on the barn

Cliff Swallow

Black-billed Magpie

A few birds roosted in and around the homestead overnight, like Western Meadowlarks and American Robins. However, most birds seemed to appear in flocks and increase, then fluctuate in numbers throughout my time there. Brewer’s Blackbirds arrived first; starting with a group of six, then multiplying until they were 30+ strong. Tree Swallows followed soon after; first one, then two, then four, and the next thing I knew, eight Tree Swallows swooped and quivered above the grasslands. A family group of Cliff Swallows soon joined them, fluttering in a similar manner. A few Barn Swallows joined the dozens of swallows already present for the tasty daily bug breakfast as the insects swarmed over the meadows. In addition to the one Mountain Bluebird from earlier, two adolescents appeared on a barn. They posed so perfectly that I had to photograph them with the namesake mountains behind them. I spent far too long enjoying the sweet, yet melancholy notes of the Mountain Bluebirds that I hardly had time to scan for other birds. Still, I could not help but notice the sudden influx of Cliff Swallows over the far barn. They flocked and swarmed like the insects they chased, enjoying the first warmth of light. From a tree in front of me, a little chip sounded plus a slightly different chip call. A Yellow Warbler appeared in front of me, and an Orange-crowned Warbler hopped through the brush. Noisy magpies called from the barns’ rooftops, as the first Violet-green Swallows finally arrived for the day. I can’t help but notice that the swallows arriving at each time of day are highly correlated to when each swallow arrives from the south. Tree Swallows, as consistently the pioneers of each season arriving when the snow is full in March grew active even before dawn broke. Barn Swallows arrived shortly after them, and the bulk of the Cliff Swallows didn’t show up until Violet-green Swallows sat on their barn. Winter for us is like a night for these birds; they survive each cold and bleak night up in the mountains just as we cozy ourselves around a fireplace. 

I spent far too long thinking about the habits of each of these birds. While I did, several Savannah Sparrows called just beneath my feet. Hidden in plain sight, they mocked me for being so oblivious to them. Eventually, a few of the kindest sparrows sat on a fencepost for me to see. Although birds are much more vocal in the mornings, nobody tells you that you might struggle to see them. Anyway, I spent much of my time photographing Mountain Bluebirds with the mountains, attempting to take an iconic selfie with them. I had moderate success, though I had more fun chasing them around. While checking out the Savannah Sparrows, I noticed a lone one up on the coneflowers. Zooming in, I saw a golden stripe on its wing—Pine Siskin up close on a native thistle! 

Perched Pine Siskin

Mountain Bluebird

Mountain Bluebird

Mountain Bluebird

By this point, the sun had risen enough to warm the roofs of the barns and the leaf hats of the tallest trees. Mountain Bluebirds looked regal in the golden sunlight. Distantly, I heard the bugling of Sandhill Cranes that I had listened to in far too many recordings. I spotted the pair distantly, flapping together above the sagebrush flying in synchrony. I understood the connection this pair of cranes had with one another. As I walked back the trail with frozen hands, I noticed the Mountain Bluebirds began a different foraging style. Like American Robins, and Wood Thrushes which I have observed once as well, they stood on the ground looking for movement and hopped about grabbing insects from the ground. They switched to this foraging strategy just as the sun reached the mowed trail between the sagebrush. I dream of one day living in a place where Mountain Bluebirds replace robins in their ecological niche. I am glad that some birds are taking advantage of the mowed sections apparently bringing insects to congregate. I also saw Savannah Sparrows hopping on the ground with the Mountain Bluebirds, just as I saw them in migration from a local park the prior autumn. Although their habitats in migration may drastically change, their foraging strategies hardly adjust. Right as I reached the car, two distant falcons lovingly swept the landscape with fiery wingbeats—American Kestrels. I ran to get a better look but they disappeared into the valley. A Swainson’s Hawk called its less-sore-throated-than-Red-tailed-Hawk call very distantly as I made my way into the car to drive back into Grand Teton National Park for a hike at Hidden Falls.

Violet-green Swallow